ASTORIA A JEWEL IN LAKEWOOD RANCH
The Astoria Russian Restaurant is a crown jewel in the necklace of Lakewood Ranch's Main Street. Enter the door of a modest storefront building and you're transported to an opulent, red and gold room with a sparkling chandelier, wall lights in large red squares and a mural of the cathedrals in Red Square on the rear wall. It has the feeling of another time and another place.
Keeping with the theme of the restaurant, our server appeared in a shimmering, long-sleeved red shirt. He was quick to offer us the wine list and warm rolls in a red wire basket that matched the décor.
Appetizers include several offerings of caviar, Red Square Shrimp, chicken pate, smoked fish combo and zrazi (seasoned mashed potatoes filled with beef, then rolled into a patty and pan-fried). After some discussion, we decided on pelmeni ($7.95) and a bowl of borscht ($6.50). We asked our server to bring us the salad he thought was best. Out of a choice of three, that turned out to be Salad Vesna ($5.95).
The menu states that making first-class pelmeni takes a truly special skill. These dumplings are made with a dough rolled so thin that it could be said to be transparent. Well-spiced ground pork and onion complete the filling. They were served with Russian garlic sauce. Black pepper corns dotted the sauce and slender pieces of yellow pepper and carrot garnished the dish.
The borscht was accompanied by a dollop of sour cream and a fresh sprig of dill. The soup was served warm and held a combination of sweet and sour beets, cabbage, mushrooms, tomatoes, carrots, onions and potatoes. The blend of flavors is exquisite and not at all as heavy as one might expect.
The Salad Vesna, called a spring salad in Russia, contained freshly sliced radishes, spring onions and cucumber. The dressing was sour-cream based but the rest is a secret. It was fully mixed into the salad so that every bite was well covered.
Chicken Kiev ($18.95) is considered Astoria's signature dish, so we chose that and Shish Kababs ($17.95), since the menu stated they are the best in town.
The Chicken Kiev arrived pan-fried, golden brown, filled with the subtle but distinct flavor of chive butter. The side of rice was a delight, filled with bits of carrot, sautéed onion and a creamy chicken-based sauce. Perfectly cooked baby asparagus and carrots were also served.
The Shish Kababs held six pieces of well-marinated chargrilled meat with adjica sauce, a flavorful combination of stewed tomatoes and onion, served over rice. Although the taste was wonderful, we thought the meat could be just a tad more tender.
After dinner, the dessert tray appeared. Desserts are either $4.95 or $5.95, and all desserts are made right in house. The apple strudel was a delicate crispy brown dough dotted with sugar and cinnamon. The inside contrasted with its dried cherries, raisins, roasted walnuts and grated lemon.
The Passionberry Duo was said to be a refreshing and perfect end to any dinner. It was the lightest of wild berry mousse, layered with a thin dark chocolate and a tropical passionfruit mousse finished with a berry glaze. It was a symphony of light and delight with just enough chocolate to give it a bit of body. The coffee ($3) was fresh, robust and hot.
We had thought that Russian food would be very heavy. The opposite is true. It was a wonderful, satisfying dining experience, but we didn't leave with that feeling of overindulgence.We look forward to trying other new dishes there, and I'll bet you will, too, after your first experience at Astoria.
Restaurant reviewers dine anonymously at Herald expense. New restaurants are given an eight-week grace period before being reviewed.
Astoria
Address: 8126 Lakewood Main St.
Bradenton
Phone: 907-3873
Hours: 11:30 a.m.- 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
Credit: Major credit cards accepted
Alcohol: Wine and beer
Handicap access: Yes
Web site: http://www.lwrdv.com/
Neighborhood: Lakewood Ranch Main Street
Price type: Dinner entrees range from $14.95 to $26.95
Outdoor dining: No
Kid friendly: Children's menu
Reservations: Suggested
©© 2006 Bradenton Herald and wire service sources. All Rights Reserved.
|
|
Kay Pruden
Special to The Herald
Published August 3, 2006 in the Herald Tribune
|
|
|
